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Angkor - Heart of the Ancient Kmer Empire

Angkor - "The City" - is the pinnacle of great monuments built by the Khmer kings, the "God" Kings of a millenium ago. More than 20 architectural and artistic wonders were constructed during 450 years, beginning in the ninth century, on the plain next to the great lake, Tonle Sap. Angkor Wat, the City Temple, was built over 37 years beginning in 1150 AD. 36,000 people and 60,000 elephants labored daily, bringing millions of tons of sandstone blocks from a mountain 60km away. Angkor Wat's towers were covered with gold, and the entire structure, which covers a square kilometer, was decorated with bas reliefs, statuary and carvings. Some of the bas reliefs of murals cut into the sandstone walls are 3m. high and 100m. long!

We start here. The following morning we go back to the works constructed in the 9th century, beginning a chronological tour that combines a bit of local history with the evolution of the architecture and decorative arts that graced this period.

There are three significant periods of Angkorian architecture. Each has its elegant examples. Rather than rush from one monument to another in order to see all of the ones in the area, we have chosen the best examples of the architecture and art of each period, in order to be able to linger, explore and contemplate. The amount of art is simply overwhelming. It takes time to absorb it, put it in historical context and appreciate its remarkable beauty.

At least 30 monuments have been found by aerial mapping that have yet to be uncovered. Some, such as Angkor Wat, The Bayon, and Banteay Srey, have been carefully cleared and greatly reconstructed in a continuing program of restoration. Other temples and monuments such as Ta Prohm and Preah Khan have been partially cleared and partly reconstructed to give visitors an idea of how these ruins appeared when they were "discovered" in the 19th century. Great gum trees and banyons emerge from walls and corridors, their pale roots entwine the blocks, prying them apart. I am fascinated by the fusion of art, architecture and forest.

Many of the temples were set in reflection pools or bathing pools in which healing herbs were grown or placed to treat bathers. Reflection pools such as Eastern Baray are enormous--7km by 2km! The temple, East Mebon rises in forest that has grown in the abandoned pool. It is guarded by stone elephants on its corners and lions on either side of the steep stairs that lead to the Temple Mountain, the symbol of sacred Mount Meru.

Neak Pean means "entwined serpents". The island temple in the middle of the deep pool is set on a round base, the coils of two giant nagas, their tails twisted together, their heads facing a horse swimming across the pond. This monument and its ponds may derive from a miraculouslake in the Himalayas from which sprang four rivers.

 


The Bayon has dozens of giant faces, Buddha like, facing each of the four directions, carved into the spires that surround the central Temple Mountain. Murals carved into the stone walls of the base portray daily life and chronicle the history of great land and sea battles.

Bird watching in the area is excellent. Parrots, parakeets, pygmy geese and Indian Rollers populate the trees and river banks. You can enjoy a day on Lake Tonle Sap where there are egrets, herons, maribou storks and kingfishers. Tonle Sap has unique floating villages, composed of boats that come together to follow the fishing in the lake and to do business along the shore. Beauty parlors, banks, police stations, restaurants, machine shops, and the other shops found in town are tied up to floats or anchored in the shallows. Small boats make their way back and forth. A Crested Serpent Eagle sits on the rail of the police station boat. Pelicans and storks hustle fish from the fish corrals. Birding trips can be arranged to the nearby mountains as well.

 

 


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Robert Cogen & Office:
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Fax: (66-76) 383-106


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